Kumbh Mela – Full Moon

The Eve Of Kumbh Mela – The Full Moon

The thud of the airplane wheels making contact with ground, jolted me awake. I was exhausted after the exhilaration of Mumbai. Varanasi – I was finally here. The holy city pulsated with an energy that resonated deep within my soul. On arriving at my guesthouse, booked through a reputable site, I was met with a disconcerting sight – no signpost and a construction site. A knot of concern flickered in my belly. Do I have lodging for the night?

The Spirit of the Yogi at Kumbh Mela

Undeterred, the spirit of a yogi kicked in. I walked around, seeking help from the warm smiles of the local residents. Their kindness, a testament to the spirit of Varanasi, blossomed as they not only pointed me in the right direction but also intervened on my behalf. The guesthouse, it turned out, was right under my nose – a brand new establishment not yet operational. Relief washed over me, laced with a touch of amusement.

The owner, apologetic and flustered, explained they’d tried to cancel the booking but to no avail. My room, unfortunately, was far from ready – more of a construction site than a haven. Yet, the universe, it seemed, had other plans. They insisted I rest in a neighbouring ashram while they prepared mine, their hospitality a balm to my weary soul.


A Different Type of Check In


But a nagging voice whispered in my ear. Varanasi, the city of Shiva, demanded a different kind of check-in. I couldn’t be here, on the cusp of the Kumbh Mela’s first holy dip, bathed in the ethereal glow of the Full Moon, without seeking permission from the fierce Kaal Bhairav, the protector deity.

Following the age-old customs, I found a flower vendor to purchase the most exquisite marigold and rose garland – a fitting offering for such a powerful being. Legend says Kaal Bhairav, Shiva’s wrathful avatar, roams the city at night, ensuring order. Sesame oil, I learned, was his preferred libation.

The temple thronged with devotees, the queue seemingly endless. Yet, an invisible force propelled me forward. Before I knew it, I was at the front, my heart pounding a frantic rhythm. The priest accepted my offerings, a solemn expression etched on his face. But then, something unexpected happened. He draped the garland around my neck. Confused, I left the temple, a strange sense of unease settling in.

Human Interconnections


My flower vendor, his eyes twinkling said “Mam, even though this garland looks beautiful on you, I made it especially for Bhairo Baba on this special night. Please take it to him.” Bhairo Baba is the name that devotees call Kaal Bhairav. Understanding that my path was interlinked with his on this powerful night – back I went, this time determined to do it right. The queue, once again, seemed to melt away, and with newfound reverence, I placed the offering at the feet of Kaal Bhairav himself.

Then drawn by an invisible current, I found myself amidst a small group of ardent devotees, the air thick with anticipation. A serene hush had descended upon the temple, punctuated by the rhythmic chanting of prayers. A priest who was observing from the back of the temple beckoned me towards a platform, inviting me to witness the unfolding magic from a prime position.

The Magic

And then, it began. A cacophony of drums erupted, their resonant beats vibrating through the very core of my being. The scent of incense filled the air, swirling with the vibrant energy emanating from the devotees. We swayed and clapped, surrendering to the hypnotic rhythm. Just as we reached a state of trance-like bliss, the temple bell boomed, its sound merging with the frenetic drumming.

The crescendo built, culminating in a moment of pure, electrifying power. A priest emerged from the inner sanctum, the conch shell in his hands. As its resonant notes echoed through the temple, a puff of black smoke erupted, engulfing the statue of Kaal Bhairav. In that swirling smoke, I saw a vision – the cleansing of my past, the burning away of remnant shadows that clouded my spirit.

Nitasha Buldeo, the yogi who found solace in self-practice, was witnessing something profound. This wasn’t blind faith; it was an awakening of the senses, a validation of the transformative power of energy and intention. As the smoke dissipated, a lightness filled me, a sense of renewal that transcended words.

The Full Moon bathed Varanasi in its silvery glow, a silent witness to this transformative experience. The Kumbh Mela beckoned, but I knew, in that moment, that my truest journey had just begun – the deepest journey to the source, guided by the blessings of Kaal Bhairav.

Significance of the Full Moon before Kumbh Mela

It is believed that the full moon amplifies the spiritual energy of the Kumbh Mela, making it an auspicious time for purification and spiritual renewal.   

Here are some key reasons why the Full Moon is significant:

  1. Increased Spiritual Energy: Hindus believe that the full moon is a time of heightened spiritual energy. The moon’s gravitational pull is at its peak during this time, which is believed to affect the Earth’s energy field and amplify spiritual vibrations. This heightened energy is believed to make the Kumbh Mela a more potent time for spiritual purification and enlightenment.   
  2. Symbolic Significance: The full moon is often associated with purity, illumination, and completion. It symbolizes the full potential of the human spirit and the opportunity for spiritual growth and transformation. Taking a dip in the sacred waters of the Kumbh Mela during the full moon is believed to help devotees shed their negative karma and achieve spiritual liberation.   
  3. Astrological Alignment: The Kumbh Mela is held at a specific astrological conjunction, with the Sun in Capricorn, the Moon in Cancer, and Jupiter in Taurus. This alignment is believed to create a powerful cosmic energy that is further amplified by the full moon. The combination of these celestial bodies is thought to create a unique opportunity for spiritual growth and transformation.
  4. Historical Significance: The Kumbh Mela has been held for centuries, and the full moon has always been an important part of the festival. This historical significance adds to the spiritual weight of the full moon and reinforces its importance in the Hindu tradition.   O
Varanasi Kumbh Mela 2025 – Kaal Bhairav Temple

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  1. Wow 🤩 amazing writing. I was transfixed and read from beginning to end! Which is quite something for my short attention span…. Awaiting the next instalment…. I think it will make a great book

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